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| GC13 |
| Weeks 3+4 |
| 2010.07.29 08:55:55 | |
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21/07/10
We started today by cutting out the pieces for several kilts. Jed had just got back from Belgium, and she had feedback from a customer about adapting the hats so they fit on people's heads better. We changed the pattern for the hats slightly, and then I cut some hat pieces out. I also began pressing the pleats into the side sections of the kilts.
22/07/10
Today was a production day, and I had a lot of pressing to do. I continued pressing the pleats into the kilts, and I also worked on the zip panels; snipping the corners, turning them inside out and pressing.
I also ironed the interfacing onto the long hat pieces, cut them out and pinned them together.
26/07/10
There were some more pieces of kilts to turn inside out and press today. I also cut more hat pieces from grey, and interfaced the pieces that needed it, pinning them all together ready for Elaine to sew. There were also a lot of armbands to turn inside out and press, and I ironed interfacing onto the circles that would be used to decorate them.
27/07/10
We needed to cut more hats today, but after one had been sewn, Jed thought we should adapt the pattern so that it sloped back down more at the ends. We cut a few this way and sewed one, but felt that although the look was good, it wasn't as 'military' so we went back to the older pattern. I cut out hats, and hat linings, and also some of the armbands.
28/07/10
Today was great, I managed to learn quite a few things. I started work on scrap bags, so I had to look for suitable fabric and cut out the pieces. Then, Jed had some supplies to get so we drove to get them. I got to visit London Trimmings and see practically every fastening imaginable! When we got back, we added the newly-purchased chain to the wallets and put them together with split-rings and trigger hooks. I then continued with the scrap bags, which meant Jed taught me how to use the overlocker, something I had mentioned I wanted to learn.We also graded the jodphur pattern up so that it could be produced in different sizes. Tags: fashion internship Hits: 4 | Read more... |
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| GC13 |
| Second week at JPOL |
| 2010.07.15 20:58:43 | |
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12/06/10
Today Jed gave me two independent design tasks to make useful items for her to use at the festival she's selling at in Belgium. First I had to make a tube to cover the poles that hold the cables for the power supply. With a few prompts from Jed I worked out how to incorporate features such as D-rings at the end and a drawstring. I also cut various lengths of webbing with the heat cutter.
My second task was to start making a bag to carry stock in, so I worked out the measurements and cut the pieces, adding interfacing in the appropriate places. I started to stitch the bag together.
13/06/10
I continued work on the bag, adding a flap to hide the interfacing, adding all the necessary straps and used webbing to strengthen the corners. When the bag was done, we started thinking about ways to make it stand up better, considering using wire. We also worked on fastenings, using quick release clips for an easy opening.
14/06/10
Today we made use of coat hanger wires to make the bag I stand up. I also sewed another bag, which this time looked a lot better and used better techniques to stabilise it. It was great to see how far my handiwork had come! Tags: internship Hits: 16 | Read more... |
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| GC13 |
| My internship at Jed Phoenix of London |
| 2010.07.07 20:13:58 | |
My first two days at JPOLHi, I'm Grace, a student in between my foundation art year and the start of my Fashion Design degree at university. Before going into university, I wanted to get some experience of what the working environment of a designer is like. I chose Jed Phoenix of London to do an internship with because I have a style that is fairly different from the mainstream and I wanted to learn what it is like to design and create the same sort of clothes that I would make if I had my own company. I emailed Jed and got a very quick response, and we arranged to meet on Tuesday the 7th of July. 07/07/2010 Before starting, Jed made us some coffee and I talked with her about what I wanted to gain from the placement. I explained that as I aim to become a designer, I was most interested in the design process itself, but would also quite like to be involved with production work to improve the skills I'll need in my degree. She talked me through a few things about the company, including a lot of the events she sells at, and the company's eco-friendly ethos.
Jed talked me through her newest design, the military-style 'belt, brace and armband', (which we still want to come up with a snappier name for!), and we started work on the brace part. We looked at ways to make it adjustable, what fastenings to use, and it was all very exciting and hands on! I love the way that Jed designs, by putting pieces together and trying it rather than putting it down on paper and hoping it's suitable. When it came to stages like deciding which sort of fastenings should be used, and which way around/up they should go, she would ask me so I could think about which would be more practical, which seems to me why her designs are so wearable. We managed to sort out where all of the pieces should go, and drew out a pattern for making the brace in future.
After lunch, we started sewing pieces of the brace together. This was the first time I had used an industrial sewing machine. Jed talked me through it, and I found it was quite easy to pick up having already known how to use a domestic machine. I worked on the fabric-covered piece of the brace. We also started planning the belt, and how best to do it. I learnt how to use the machine 'production-style' and we made lots of little D-ring sleeves for people to customise and hang stuff from the belt.
08/07/2010 We had realised that the belt needed to be adapted so that the part that went through the double D ring fastening was one-layer. We sorted this out, and wrote down the different lengths that the different waist sizes would need. Jed taught me how to use the heat cutter (which was quite fun after a while) so I could cut the webbing and get all the lengths ready, then I pinned them together.
We started drafting an armband pattern that had a military feel to it, and cut it out. We cut and sewed it, and decided where to place the velcro and what to do to decorate the band.
In the afternoon, we finished off the armband, and saw how it worked with the brace. We then worked on cutting out skirt pieces, so we could have plenty ready for the next few events JPOL was selling at. Jed taught me to cut on multiple layers of fabric to save time, and we managed to make use of the awkward shaped edge pieces by cutting more armband pieces from them!
My first couple of days have been awesome, and I can't wait until tomorrow, when I'm going to meet Elaine, and learn some more about the production process. Tags: internship Hits: 25 | Read more... |
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| Designers Delights |
| 2010.06.29 20:22:12 | |
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An exclusive insight into what it's really like to work as a designer in the hidden, nether world of alternative fashion! This month we've been working on new designs, including a new jacket sample, and recovering from Whitby Goth Weekend. We've finished making another new JPOL video, to show people how best to don their JPOL 21st Century strap trousers, made some JPOL business card holders, and sadly had to say farewell to our lovely intern Emma. New from JPOL! Here's a few sneaky peeks of the new JPOL design - can you guess what it is yet? All will be revealed very soon... In the studio with JPOL
We've all been very productive in the studio lately, with all kinds of design magic going on! Here's an extra something special we're making for a self-confessed JPOL groupie, to go with their new kilt, because we're nice like that. Business card holders We've designed some nifty little business card holders, which attach via keyring style clips so you can hang them from anywhere you like! Belts, bags, strap trousers... piercings, etc We've finished filming and editing yet another of our new series of videos for the JPOL website. The new video shows you precisely how best to don your Jed Phoenix of London 21st Century strap trousers, without ending up with your foot sticking our through the wrong hole or wearing them on your arms or something... don't laugh, you'd be surprised at some of the stories we've heard! Famous wearers of JPOL strap trousers include one Mr Gary Numan, Wayne Hussey of The Mission, and Blaze Bailey of Iron Maiden! From all the comments we've received, people are thankfully finding our instructions in the video clear and easy to follow, and really helpful in general - hurrah! Three cheers for us, and also for everyone who took the time and effort to tell us their comments! [Link: How to put your 21st Century strap trousers on!]Strap trousers Our new camouflage strap trousers have been selling like hot cakes, especially at Whitby Goth Weekend. So well, in fact, that we're actually making some camo kilts too! Grab a pair for yourself, and you too can look bloomin' great, whilst also preventing people from seeing your legs if you're in the woods. Also, we recently made a special one-off pair of strap trousers for one of our special one-off customers - we used black denim, leaving some of the edges raw so they will fray over time. For extra head-turning effect, we added metal side release buckles too. They turned out really well, as you can see below. Special order raw edge strap trousers with metal side release bucklesWe love Whitby Goth Weekend! And talking of Whitby Goth Weekend, we must say, we had an absolutely FAB time there, yet again! [ http://www.jedphoenix.com/Bye bye Emma Farewell to our lovely intern Emma, who's now stitched her last stitch on her last bondage jacket and kilt at Phoenix-Rose towers, as she's come to the end of her internship with us. She's also just posted her last blog entry on the JPOL site about her last few days working with us, which you can read here. We'd all like to wish her the very most bestest of luck with everything for the future - and to say thank you very much again for the card and present too! JPOL - as worn by... Festival of Sins' David de Vynel, modelling a red and black City Punk bondage jacket! Please also note the somewhat saucy Festival of Sins armband... Ask JPOL Do you have any questions you'd like answered about JPOL? There will an FAQ section on the new look website so let us know your questions and we'll get working on the answers. If your question isn't answered there, then feel free to go to jedphoenix dot com/contact-jed-phoenix and drop us a line. Tags: Designers Delights Hits: 40 | Read more... |
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| What's Happening June/July |
| 2010.06.17 20:26:54 | |
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This summer see's the unveiling of several new excitingly enticing designs, as well as some Jed Phoenix Of London classics in fantastisch new fabrics, and JPOL go on a jolly jaunt over the English Channel! Bizarre Bazaar in Brum Sunday 20th June New camouflage trousers and sexy sporrans at LFF Sunday 11th July Belgian Gothic festivities 16th to 18th July Tags: Hits: 30 | Read more... |
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| Emma Mather |
| My last couple of days at Jed Phoenix |
| 2010.05.27 11:02:50 | |
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Monday – 24th May 2010 Before I went to the studio I made a little detour to London Trimmings again to get some thread for Jed. This was to match the new fabric we had bought for the military outfit we had been working on. Upon my return we set about on starting the jacket and unlike the trousers we began using an existing jacket block that Jed had instead of drafting one from scratch. There were several changes that we had to make in order for it to resemble the design that I had drawn. Firstly we made the length of the jacket longer so that it came over the bum and we also put two vents in the back, in addition we eliminated the centre back seam too. Another exciting adventure was making the sleeve pattern into a two piece sleeve which Jed had never done before. The reason for it being a two piece was that webbing needed to be sewn into the inside seams as this would be a place used to carry a crop, paddle, whip etc. The whole outfit was designed to be very practical and functional for the wearer so they and their partner can get the most out of it. Tuesday – 25th May 2010 Today we spent our time refining the jacket pattern as we worked out how to do the collar and button stand. We also made patterns for the lining and the facings of the jacket to give it that professional touch. Once all our pattern pieces were complete I cut them out in the same fabric we had used for the trousers and know it was crunch time! While Jed started sewing the jacket together I spent the time making up some fabric scraps bags which was a similar principle to that of the flat cap pockets that I made. I also cut out some letters and used bondaweb to secure them onto the front of the bags, ready to be filled and sent off. Most of the jacket came together smoothly and I particularly liked the sleeves which turned out really well. Jed also decided that she was going to change the shape of the collar as she was not quite happy with it but this would be an easy pattern correction to make. She also made the decision to sew the darts on the jacket the traditional way as usually she sews them on the outside to make them more of a feature. Overall the jacket turned out quite well although it still did need some refining which Jed would be able to work on after I had gone. I have to say that I will dearly miss working with Jed as I have had a great time on work experience as both Jed and Libby are such lovely people. If any students are reading this I would highly recommend Jed Phoenix for carrying out your internship as you will get a chance to experience a wide range of things and it is an ideal opportunity if you’re a very hands on person. For me, working for a smaller company has been more than beneficial as you get an insight into a different side of fashion, one that isn’t all glitz and glam. It definitely opens up your eyes to the real world and sure you can try reach for the top and be a minion in a major fashion house, but all I have to say is McQueen and Pincushions! (Ask Jed). Tags: work experience Hits: 100 | Read more... |
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| Emma Mather |
| Trousers and Greenwich |
| 2010.05.27 10:22:00 | |
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Tuesday – 18th May 2010 Today the ship set sail on a voyage of discovery! The discovery of the long awaited military trousers, how exciting! Our first step was to create a basic trouser block which would be our initial starting point. As my course is mainly based on draping it was quite a novel and valuable experience to be shown the methods of drafting. It is definitely something for those who are into technical drawing and maths, although I must admit my arithmetic is quite dreadful but with a trusty calculator at hand the world is my oyster! The general gist of drafting is knowing the length/width of certain points then plotting them accordingly and joining the lines, I guess in effect it is like a larger scale of dot-to-dot. Once the block was drawn out to the measurements we wanted we traced it off and began modifying it to fit the design. The trousers were to be of Jodhpur style with quite fitted legs so I believe the first thing we did was to make the legs thinner than the original block. The purpose for the legs being thin was so that they would easily fit into big boots. Jed drew in the desired shape for the top of the jodhpurs which stick out considerably and are quite dramatic. Once the block was complete we started to play around with the details such as the trouser openings. These were to be two zips down the front of the trousers running down a little bit of the thigh which would be covered by a flap. After we made slits in the legs and inserted the zips we set about creating the zip covering. In effect it was a length of material that would be sewn onto the trousers with little loops of elastic sandwiched in-between the layers then sewn into place. To keep the flap securely down buttons would be sewn onto the trousers and buttonhole elastic would be used to pass through the loop then secure back down onto the button. The next thing we did was to make up a sample pocket which would be situated on the ‘sticky out bits’ of the trousers and it took us several attempts to get it quite right. The pocket also had a really long pocket bag as it would be used to accommodate a paddle or I guess anything else long enough that could administer pain! Wednesday – 19th May 2010 The trousers were still our focus point today but this time we were playing round with the legs as Jed wanted the lower half of the trousers to be detachable. To do this we used the same sort of principle as the flap covering the zips at the top of the trousers. The main part of the trouser had elastic loops secured onto it and the lower half of the trousers that came off had buttons and buttonhole elastic sewn onto it. We made sure that both pieces overlapped so there were no gaps in the trouser legs. Jed also had the idea that the when the lower half was detached the remaining elastic loops could be used to secure the trousers under the foot using elastic. This meaning that if you were wearing them inside boots they would not ride up and would stay in place, quite a genius idea I thought. The previous night Jed had also been playing with the quick release straps that she wanted to put on the bottom legs of the trousers, allowing the wearer to make the legs even tighter. Once the experimenting was complete we started to make up the sample garment which we managed to do in more or less one day which I thought was rather impressive, although we did only do some of the features on one side. When it came to the ‘sticky out bits’ or elephant ears as Jed liked to call them we made them even more dramatic by padding them out with wadding to give them added structure. Jed also attached webbing and trigger hooks so they could be pulled back towards the bottom if you didn’t want to make such a bold statement, also adding some extra cushioning for your rear, how thoughtful. Friday – 21st May 2010 Today I was out of the studio and in the heart of Greenwich market with Libby. Libby often does patchwork workshops and she had been asked to create a patchwork for the 25th anniversary of Arts and Crafts at Greenwich market. As she would be on her own I was roped into help which I was looking forward to as it would be a nice change of scenery and also the first time I would be visiting Greenwich. Quite thankfully it was pretty easy to get there and only took me two buses and if Jed hadn’t told me how to get there god knows where I would have ended up! It was a lovely sunny day and when I got there people were setting up their stalls and I met Libby who did not have a stall but an empty shop which she had miraculously turned into a pink and fluffy room of delights, (very Libby) with several sewing machines set up. The previous day I had helped prepare and drew out the patchwork design which was a heart with 25 in it onto squares of canvas. The idea being that people would come into the workshop and complete a square, then all of the squares would get sewn together and the patchwork would be hung up in the market. My first task was to sort out the many fabric scraps bags that Libby brought with her as she wanted them colour coordinated into separate bags. Once this was done me and Libby decided on the colours that each section of the patchwork should be depending on the colours we had. In the end we decided that the numbers would be in black and silver, the heart in reds and pinks and the background in blues and purples. The first people to set this activity going were a group of four school girls who were on a trip to the market and although some of them were more interested than others they all made a good effort and it was a small start in our mammoth task! Throughout the morning things were quite slow and not many people seemed interested and it didn’t really help that it was during the week so all the kids were at school but never mind. Later on in the afternoon it started to pick up a little and we had several women with young children who came in and did a couple of patchwork squares each. Nearing the end of the day not all of the squares had been completed so I and some of Libby’s friends had the task of finishing off the rest of the squares and trying to get them sewn together. Although it was a rush in the end to get the thing finished it was a most enjoyable day and probably one of the highlights of my work experience. Tags: work experience Hits: 93 | Read more... |
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| Emma Mather |
| Entry 2 - Pockets and Places |
| 2010.05.13 18:53:01 | |
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Tuesday – May 4th 2010 Today I was set off with an easy task by Libby as she asked me to copy out some of her patterns onto card. The patterns were from one of her skirts and the majority of my morning was taken up by this task which I found most pleasurable as unlike most I don’t mind doing monotonous things. Whilst tracing off the patterns I was approached by Jed with one of her many ideas! Recently she started to make flat caps as accessories to accompany her outfits and wanted to put a pocket on the cap for one of her clients which would hold business cards. Jed and I talked about how this could be done and in the end decided that they would be detachable from the cap. The cap would have two buttons sewn onto the side and on the back of the pocket buttonhole elastic would be attached so the wearer could choose whether to have a pocket or be pocket less. After finalising this Jed asked me to draw up a pattern and make up a sample to see how the piece turned out.......so I set to work! Once the pattern was done which wasn’t hard I cut out a few in fabric with the first step being to sew on the buttonhole elastic. After this I over locked the top edges of the pocket and then over locked the sides together. To finish the tops I folded the fabric over and sewed around the edge and hey presto they were done! I showed Jed and overall she was pleased although a slight modification had to be made to the pattern as it turned out when the cards were placed inside they didn’t quite stick up far enough. Jed then added some details to the pockets such as webbing with d-rings and trigger hooks attached, this making them multi-functional. Once I had sewn down some of these parts she put up some pictures on Face book and had a really good response with people even asking for them. Quite a successful day all in all! Wednesday – May 5th 2010 I have to admit that I was a tiny bit scared of this day as before I left on Tuesday evening Jed asked me if I would mind running an errand for them the next day and as a good intern I politely agreed that I would. So, my task was to travel to London Trimmings on my way into work to pick up a few bits and pieces, thank god Jed had given me a list and some samples. Being from up North means that I’m not an ace at the underground and I try not to travel alone if I can help it as I fear that if I do travel solo that I may never be seen again! Anyway, the night before I was a good girl and researched how to get there as I would be travelling from London Victoria to White Chapel and luckily it was only one tube, phew! Getting there was a doddle and it was nice to go somewhere that I had never been before. On stepping out of the underground station the street was filled with market stalls selling all kinds of things, from shoes to fruit and veg so it was a pleasant walk. When I found my way to London Trimmings I realised I was a little too early, 45 minutes to be precise so I spent that time procrastinating in the nearby Sainsbury’s. When I finally managed to get inside the shop I spent a little time looking around and don’t think I have ever seen so many zips under one roof! I then asked one of the assistants for some help and gave them my list of goods which included bias binding, cotton reels, eyelets, zip heads and zip stoppers. Once all was gathered I paid at the till and set on my way. Upon returning Jed asked me to make some more pockets for the flat caps but this time using more feminine fabrics with some of their floral and leopard print cottons along with various others. This took up the rest of my day and now they had enough pockets to take with them to events and hopefully sell. Wednesday – 12th May 2010 Today I spent most of the day on my own as both Jed and Libby had things to attend to which was the perfect opportunity to put my creativity into practice. Jed had stated previously that she had ideas for a military outfit that had been going on in her head for about the last three years. Due to work she had been unable to pursue these but with my help she wanted to make this vision a reality and what a better day than this! Beforehand Jed had asked me to collect some magazine images of military style clothing which I did and we spent some time on the internet researching some of her ideas. After spending a couple of hours doing this I had a list of all the things Jed wanted, ranging from the shapes of the garments to the fittings and fixtures. With all of this information I spent the rest of the afternoon drawing out the jacket and trouser outfit, bringing together everything Jed wanted. When Jed came back she was really pleased with the drawings and I think that I was able to capture all the aspects and the look that she wanted which made me happy. Thursday – May 13th 2010 Adventure time! Jed and I discussed that today we would go on a little jaunt in preparation for the birth of the military uniform. We started off our journey by going to the fabric wholesaler ‘Empee’ where Jed gets all her fabrics. When I walked in I was quite overwhelmed as I had NEVER seen as much fabric in one place before, it was truly extraordinary. As well as getting a few of her usual fabrics we were on the search for material for the new outfit. Being military Jed wanted to get something that was in air force blue or charcoal grey and she found a lovely grey fabric that had a nice weight that would give a crisp finish......Jed was very excited at this point. After paying for the goods we set off for S&K Trimmings which was considerably smaller but a little hidden gem selling all sorts of fastenings. We selected a fastening and got five in silver and 5 in an antique/brass finish as these would be for the front opening on the new military jacket. While we were there Jed discovered some camouflage elastic and could not resist in buying some along with some brown webbing and antique coloured d-rings to match........now Jed was very, very excited! Our last trip was to London Trimmings where I had gone previously as it turned out that the zip heads they had given me did not fit the zips. Jed thought they had given us a faulty bunch but it turned out that they gave us the wrong zip heads so Jed did an exchange and also bought some more clips for her strap trousers. When we got back it was a bit of a struggle carrying all our purchases but thank god they had a lift! I must admit that I really enjoyed going shopping with Jed as it opened up my eyes to how it is when you are buying for a company as oppose to buying for a couple of garments. It also gave me the chance to become familiar with some good companies which I could use in future to buy my goods. Tags: work experience Hits: 74 | Read more... |
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| Emma Mather |
| My first few days at Jed Phoenix |
| 2010.05.03 19:56:39 | |
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Hi, my name is Emma and I am currently a ‘Fashion Atelier’ student at the University for the Creative Arts in Rochester, Kent. I consider myself as someone who enjoys the unusual and I am extremely inspired by the world of fetish. As part of my degree I was required to carry out 3-4 weeks work experience but wanted to do my internship somewhere that would fed my imagination, hence my placement with Jed Phoenix. I first heard of the alternative clothing brand through a friend of a friend who regularly attends conventions. After looking on their website I found that the unusual designs intrigued me and I believed that they could offer me a chance to work in a highly creative environment, specifically geared towards my passion of fetish attire. Day 1 – 29/04/2010 Before starting my placement I was extremely nervous but after meeting Jed and Libby who were both lovely I realised there was nothing to worry about. To start the day Jed and I had a cup of tea and she asked me about my interests and aspirations and told me about her own background. I thought that it was nice that she actually spent some time to get to know me meaning that we would have an understanding of each other and understand how one another worked. After our informal chat I helped Jed sort out the stock she had taken to Whitby Goth weekend and this gave me a chance to become familiar with the garments Jed sold. I also assisted in sorting a small range of garments that would be taken to the Birmingham Bizzare Bazaar event due to happen in the middle of May. After stock sorting I talked with Libby about one of her current designs which was a dress with dungaree style straps at the back which she wanted to turn into trouser dungarees. The idea was that they needed to be functional in a working farm environment but still be wearable outside f manual work. Making notes of the requirements I spent the rest of the afternoon drawing up several designs. Day 2 – 30/04/2010 First of all I sat down with Jed and Libby and discussed my designs which they both seemed to be pleased with. They did not pick out one particular design but highlighted aspects from different designs that they liked so using a combination of these elements I came up with a final refined dungaree style. As to enhance the functionality of the dungarees I also designed an ‘apron/utility belt’ (still to be re-named!) which would be detachable from the actual garment. After finalising the designs I spent some time with Jed playing with different fastenings and different methods of how the ‘apron’ could be attached to the dungarees, utilising d-rings, hook and eye strips, clips, buttons and button hole elastic. Initially the fastening for the dungarees was going to be one continuous zip that went down the chest at the front, under the crotch and right up the back, this allowing the garment to un-zip in two halves. In order to make this work the zip would need to have three heads so Jed and I set about trying the whole thing out. Cutting a length of zip Jed showed me how to attach the zip heads to the zip using a jig, this creating an open ended zip. Jed made it look easy but it took me a few attempts to get it right. Through experimentation, several web-searches and YouTube videos our much baffled brains (well mine at least) realised that getting three heads onto one zip that moved in the right direction was impossible! However, having our design dreams slightly shattered did not stop us! It is important to realise that experimentation is vital to producing god designs as sometimes things just don’t work out when you start to transfer them from paper into reality. Later on in the afternoon I used one of Libby’s bodice blocks and began to draft the ‘apron’ from the design. Once I was happy with the shape I cut out the piece in fabric and pinned it to the mannequin to get a better idea of what it looked like. After a couple of minutes of intense staring I decided that I was happy with the overall look and Libby seemed to be pleased to. Overall it proved to be an interesting day and one that was by in large successful. Day 3 – 03/05/2010 Today I met Elaine who usually comes in once a week to help with the production of the garments, with her and Jed having a mini production line set in place. Unlike the previous two days I wouldn’t be working on Libby’s dungarees but instead helped make up part of her women’s braces. As she was using new smaller buckles I drafted a new pattern piece to fit the width of the new buckle dimensions. Once this was done I cut out three sets of brace straps out of several different cotton fabrics, each with a different print. To help reinforce the pieces I ironed interfacing onto the back of the fabrics then ironed the edges of the pieces over by 1cm, this being the seam allowance. Along the top edge I placed a cut strip of mounted rhinestones/diamantes and then I brought the fabric up from the bottom edge and laid it flush against the stones, pinning the fabric in place. Once pinned the pieces had been fully prepped and were ready to be sewn. Although quite fiddly at times my day went quite quickly and I actually found the whole process rather therapeutic. Tags: work experience Hits: 86 | Read more... |
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| Designers Delights |
| 2010.04.29 16:48:14 | |
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Do you want an insight into the world of working as an alternative fashion designer? Fancy a glimpse behind the scenes into the production studio of Jed Phoenix of London? Then read on... This month we've been working flat out on the new look JPOL website (to be launched in the next few months), as well as JPOL goes camo! We got our hands on a few meters of camo Also, here's a very interesting take on
Kilts although it was shame to have to un-stitch a perfectly put together kilt the other day, after accidentally sewing these double-sided zips on them the wrong way round!
Kataginus, Ties and Laser Etching? Lovely new ties, Kataginu emblems and laser etched JPOL logo plates - get 'em while they're hot, they're lovely... Being in desperate need for more metal JPOL logo plates for
JPOL online - now with added video! Also, here's SkinjoB Infest Festival (photo by Dom Turner) wearing a JPOL laced jacket live on stage.
Ask JPOL Do you have any questions you'd like answered about JPOL? There will an FAQ section on the new look website so let us know your questions and we'll get working on the answers. Just contact us with your enquiries about any aspect of an alternative clothing brand, it's products and what Jed Phoenix of London can do for you. Tags: Designers Delights Hits: 90 | Read more... |
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| Upcoming events where JPOL will be trading |
| 2010.04.07 20:39:46 | |
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Spring has sprung, and this year's events and plans are well and truly underway... and at Jed Phoenix of London we're so excited we can hardly contain ourselves! We've even had to strap ourselves in a little more tightly than usual just so we can tell you all about everything that's going on. London Fetish Fair, 11th AprilFirstly, London Fetish Fair (LFF), the longest running fetish fair in the UK, takes place on the 2nd Sunday of every month, and the next event is on Sunday 11th of April. We'll be there flogging our fabulous alternative fashion wares to the gathered throng of fetishistic folk in attendance. There's also going to be a CP workshop by Vicki and Cat from Freak! as well as some kinky cabaret from 8pm courtesy of Laurie Vanderhagen, at the after-show party Club Vandersexxx. Find out the full details at the LFF website.
Birmingham Bizarre Bazaar, 18th AprilFor those of you residing in the Midlands, and anyone who fancies a day trip to Birmingham with a difference, we'll be setting up shop again at the (in)famous Birmingham Bizarre Bazaar (BBB), on Sunday 18th of April. As well as being able to try and buy all manner of alternative fashions at our JPOL stall, there'll be over 30 suppliers of quality kinky goods at BBB, to cater for all your alternative, curious, and downright pervy needs! All this, as well as a plethora of opportunities for getting friendly and socialising, or, if you prefer, you can just stand back and people-watch to your hearts content. The featured 'Demo' this month, which will have your skin tingling in delight, is 'The Art Of The Cane', a detailed examination of this notorious instrument of pain and pleasure, and there's also the After Market Party on the top floor of The Nightingale until 11pm. For more info, check out the brumbazaar website. Whitby Goth Weekend, 23rd, 24th, 25th AprilThe ultra popular bi-annual Whitby Goth Weekend is upon us once again! Taking place over three days from Friday 23rd right through to Sunday 25th of April, JPOL will be there with knobs on, and a fully stocked stall, standing proudly amongst the myriad of Gothic and alternative traders in the main room of the Leisure Centre at this mecca for Goths from all around the world. If you're going, do make sure you stop by and say hello to us won't you? Before I go and have a nice cup of tea to calm down from thinking about all this wonderfully hectic-yet-energising activity, I'd just like to remind you that if you know anyone who would also like to subscribe to the JPOL newsletter, all they have to do is simply enter their name and email address in the "Our Newsletter" module on the left hand side of the JPOL homepage.Well, that's 'all' for this month - we hope to see you at one or more of the upcoming events this AprilTags: Whitby Goth Weekend Hits: 129 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience: 30th Nov - 4th Dec 2009 |
| 2009.12.07 19:26:32 | |
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30th November 2009 I started at 8.30am and the weather was absolutely terrible today! It was really raining down and the wind broke my umbrella within 5 minutes of leaving my house. I got to work fine however and it quite noisy and disruptive as some builders were in doing some work in the studio. Firstly I cut some webbing strips with the hot knife and then I spent the rest of the day pressing with the steam iron. The pile was rather large and it is important to work through these pieces so they can move on to the next step in the construction process. I pressed lining, trouser pockets, waistcoat pockets, interfacing etc. Jed worked nearby cutting and preparing pieces and Libby returned from being out at 2pm so we all had lunch then. After lunch, more pressing and pile not quite finished by 4.30pm when I left for home in better weather! 1st December 2009 December has come about already! It certainly made its mark too as it was very cold this morning and I had numb ears by the time I got to work. I went to the pressing table to continue the pile but more had been added so it was a steady pace through the construction process. I had the chance to do some sewing today and it’s been a while so it was like a novelty all over again. I sewed binding to fabric rectangles used to make sporrans worn at the front of a kilt and completed various other tasks throughout the day. Lunch was just after 1pm and the workmen were in for a final time but quieter today! After cutting some interfacing and pinning zips I ended the day at 5pm. 2nd December 2009 It was not as cold this morning which was a relief! (I do not get on well with the cold at all). Elaine was in today at the sewing machine. Firstly I pinned in some zips to fabric panels before having to pin/prepare some sporrans. The layers of the sporrans can become quite thick so it is painfully impossible to pin through these without some form of protection, so I had wrapped tape around the thumb to help push through the pins, Ouch! Next the four sides of these needed overlocked so using the industrial overlocker, which I have not used as much as sewing machines, I overlocked these. The machine is very fast at first but I got used to it and feel pretty confident on it now. Binding was then sewn along the bottom edge of each sporran to seal it. Amongst completing these sporran tasks I did the occasional bit of pressing for Jed and so on. The day ended at 4pm and I shall continue with the sporrans tomorrow. 3rd December 2009 Straight to work on the sporrans this morning! This time I sewed binding around the very top edge of each sporran, this neatens the edge and improves overall look of the product. Then a topstitch is done down the middle of each side which keep the folds shape of allows the sporran to fold outward and expand when contents are added. One inch pieces of Velcro are added to each side of the sporran after this so the sides can be fastened when compact to keep the shape etc. Four inch strips of Velcro are needed for the main centre fastening of the sporran but Jed’s Velcro ran out and we are awaiting delivery so I cannot continue these until Monday! I went home today at 4pm after cutting some buttonhole elastic. Sule was in today doing some hand sewing and pressing and it was great to see her, but I will not be seeing her again unfortunately as I have just one more week of work experience after this one! I wished her luck and we said farewell. 4th December 2009 Today Jed and I worked together for most of the day completing various tasks. We first cut a coat pattern in black cotton drill and purple satin and after cutting this out various pieces were pinned together and darts were marked ready for it’s construction. The same process was done for two riding crop pocket skirts as I wore at Erotica. I sewed a couple of Jed Phoenix labels onto the back of men’s waistcoats after that along with attaching elastic pieces I sewed D-rings onto and appropriate straps to complete the waistcoats. A few pressing tasks were done in between this and lunch came about afterward at 1:30pm. The rest of the day I spent preparing kilt pieces that had been already pressed/pleated by Sule. This involved accurately pinning appropriate zips and pinning the pleats in place so they stay until the kilts are sewn up completely. The day ended with re-pining some zips into a seam which had appeared too far away from the zip teeth. Gosh it’s the weekend already! Tags: work experience Hits: 401 | Read more... |
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| saat
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| Erotica 2009 |
| 2009.12.02 17:49:43 | |
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Erotica 2009 Jed Phoenix Report. Erotica is known to be the most largest lifestyle show for freethinking adults. At this Event that lasts for 3 days located in the Olympia in London you can buy any kind of erotic adult products, kinky and alternative fashion. Jed Phoenix of London has been trading since 2002 at this Event. So this year Erotica 2009. I am having a look at the event in a different way. Looking at what the other exhibitors got to offer and are they competition for Jed Phoenix of London? You can look at it from different perspectives. Jed Phoenix of London has a very unique style. And on this event there will be allot of traders that have something to do with erotica. So at the event there were loads of toys and equipment for adults to use. So on that scene there wasn’t really competition for Jed. The same goes for the corsets traders. There were countless traders on this event. But they specialize in corsets so also this wasn’t really a competition for Jed Phoenix Of London. Maybe in a way to approach women. Because allot of women like feminine and sexy clothing they would maybe be more appealed to these stands. But, Jed Phoenix of London also has Females visiting the Stand at Erotica. Its just the kind of style you would like to wear. Lovebomb had a very interesting stand. They were selling t-shirts with rips in them. The style was goth I think. It had shirts with angel wings on the back which was very cool and they were also selling ties. Lovebomb have a wide range of prints to go on to shirts. The other stand that was quite interesting was the alternative footwear stand. This wasn’t only because of the style but also shoes make an outfit complete. So maybe that’s a thing to look at. Jed Phoenix of London doesn’t have a range of shoes yet. Even though there is competition out there , not any brand has the same as Jed Phoenix of London. And after a busy weekend the sales were great! Erotica was an other successful year! Tags: Hits: 301 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - EROTICA 2009 |
| 2009.11.24 12:55:05 | |
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20th, 21st and 22nd November 2009 - EROTICA Friday First day of Erotica! I arrived just before 12 noon when the event opens to the public. I met Dave and Karen, friends of Jed who have been helping at Erotica for several years now. Jed kindly allowed me to wear an outfit from her collection. I wore a long black riding crop skirt, white collared shirt with pinstripe cravat and Libby gave me a cute little black top hat with pink feather decoration to wear. The event opened and there was already a decent amount of people in the event taking a look around. Jed had a customer almost instantly, a gentleman interested in men’s waistcoats and shirts, a great start! Being my very first time at Erotica it took some time to settle in and I stood and watched everything going on to pick up some good ideas and mental notes about the event. Sade turned up a little way into the day with her friend and we all took a walk around to see what sort of products were on sale and types of companies showing at Erotica. I noticed there were lots of corsets available, some rubber clothing and accessories/bondage products etc. However not so much menswear was available so Jed definitely had an advantage with her menswear garments, always proving to be popular! As Sade left I took a walk to Tesco to pick up some lunch for everyone. Throughout the day I took a few walks around to get used to the environment and started to try and build up my confidence in approaching and dealing with customers that visited the Jed Phoenix stand. Elaine also popped in during the day so it was lovely to see her and she could see how all her sewing had come together, which was fantastic. I went to watch the stage show during the day (it was hard to keep track of time with so much going on!). I thought the show was really interesting, with ballet dancers, suspended hoop artists, fire eaters, pole dancing and a performance by a woman in a tub of glass - it was varied and people always had something different to look at and the costume was great. Jed allowed me to leave for home at 9pm and I was tired by this point! Saturday I started the day a little later at 3pm today which allowed me to get a well needed sleep and process everything from yesterday. I felt ready to go and much more confident about the event and dealing with customers. I stood at the side of the stand a lot handing out flyers and making conversation with customers and answering any questions they may have had. Dave was again working but unfortunately Karen was unwell so could not come in. Saturday was the busiest day at Erotica, there were many more people than Friday so the pace of the day was much faster. There were times where there would be several visitors to the stand at one time and we were all there attempting to help everyone and hold mirrors for customers to view garments that were being tried on. Many sales were made and there was much interest in a selection of the garments, a very positive day. I left Olympia just before 10pm and my feet were definitely very sore from wearing my heels all day (which I am not used to yet!) Sunday Today began at 2pm for me I got to meet Phil for the first time - web master for Jed Phoenix. This new day, again bought more confidence and understanding so I felt I had learned a lot leading up to this final day. More flyers were handed out although the day was much quieter than other days considering it was a Sunday and the final day. I happened to bump into an old school friend which was a coincidence! Mark, Neil and Sandy visited mid way through the day and spend time talking with Jed, Libby and myself as well as taking a look around at the other stands. It was lovely to see them again and I will hopefully see them again at the next LFF. I took a walk around Erotica with Mark today to have a better look at different products and it was interesting to have someone to talk to about their opinions on various aspects of the event etc. The only struggle today was wearing heels when my feet were still very sore from yesterday, so I unfortunately had to change into my flat shoes for some of the day. Today I also spoke more with people at the event working on stands nearby to Jed Phoenix of London and everyone seems very friendly with one another. It seemed the event had flown by so fast by the end of the day when I left just before 8pm. I also thought I best leave with a souvenir to remind me of Erotica so I purchased a rather lovely underbust black and white corset towards the end of the day. The three days had been a new experience - tiring, learning curve, rewarding, positive and fun all at once. It has been a great success for Jed and I thank her for allowing me to participate!
Tags: work experience | Erotica Hits: 424 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - Erotica Set Up |
| 2009.11.24 11:40:37 | |
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19th November 2009 - Erotica Set Up Set up today saw the day beginning at 10am and helping to load the van at Jed's with everything needed at Erotica for the weekend. Jed, Libby and I took turns taking stock down to the garage and loading the van up at the end. We then took the drive to Olympia which took just under an hour and got a good parking spot just outside the door so we could transfer everything inside with ease. I started to set up the clothing rails and attatchments so garments could start to be hung up and organised. There were several bags and boxes to be sorted and signs with pricing to be placed appropriately. Jed has two typewriters up on the stand ready for people to enter their names and e-mail addresses to sign up for the newsletter. As the day passed the stand began to come together nicely with grid wall being hung, posters put up and menswear and womenswear grouped in such a way that customers could easily view the collections. Jed has a horse (gymnastics) which acts as a great means of storage and also somewhere for staff to sit during the time spent at Erotica. I left Olympia at 7.15pm and worked out the train journey from Olympia to home meaning I now know how long it would take me tomorrow, Saturday and Sunday. Tags: work experience Hits: 257 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - Fishtail Skirts |
| 2009.11.24 11:23:20 | |
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16th, 17th and 18th November 2009 Erotica starts at the end of this week so it's busy work in the studio getting everything finished and prepared. I have spent the last three days (Mon, Tue and Wed) with Libby making a batch of high waisted knee length fishtail skirts with reversible back centre panels. They have been made up in various fabrics including black PVC, red leopard print, black satin and pink polka dot print etc. Libby had cut out the fabric pieces and overlocked them together and then I placed a reinforcement stitch down each seam of the skirt, pressed seams flat and topstitched each. It was a timely process but ensures the skirts are extra strong and secure for a great tight fit. Libby and I also both sewed in zips to the back panels of the skirts and I pinned and sewed bottom seams (which are of a zig zag effect so as to flare out at the knee). Libby finished off each skirt with topstitching all the way around and the skirts look beautiful and are ready for Erotica on Friday. I'm sure there will be lots of interest! It's set up day for Erotica tomorrow so I will get a chance to see what it is like setting up a pitch with all the products for a three day event! Tags: work experience Hits: 294 | Read more... |
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| jed
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| Whitby Goth Weekend October 2009 |
| 2009.11.14 11:37:48 | |
A celebratory 2009 WGW
October 2009 marked Jed Phoenix of London’s 1st Year Anniversary trading at Whitby Goth Weekend. As with most of the big weekend events, there was several weeks of preparation to be done - designing the advertisement for the WGW Almanack, planning the schedule of production, and topping up the stocks of shirts, ties, waistcoats, strap trousers, kilts and the new braces design. Elaine's work on the Wednesday was timed almost to perfection, with her finishing the last garment we needed just as her day ended. I carried on in the JPOL studio, lacing bustles into bustle skirts, threading the webbing belts through the belt loops on the trousers etc and doing a full stock take. Sade, who's doing a 3 month internship with us, had helped Libby do a Halloween costume making workshop at Greenwich Market and had been in charge of the Flip camera. It was only when Libby arrived back at around 9.30pm that she realised that the camera we were aiming to take up to Whitby with us had gone back to Cheshunt in Sade's bag! A slight panic ensued as I tried and failed to find any outlets easily accessible on the route to Whitby that had any Flip cameras in stock. There was still a fair amount of packing to do, and it was getting late, so we decided to make some phone calls following morning to track down the elusive camera. A quick dash from London to Whitby
Day one of Whitby Goth Weekend - trading in the Leisure CentreFriday 30th of October saw not only my birthday, but also bought in the best trade over the whole Whitby Goth Weekend, with both repeat customers and some rather excited, mainly male, new ones. The braces proved a popular addition to the range, and the strap trousers, kilts, shirts, ties and waistcoats made up the majority of the sales. Libby attracted attention from the female customers with her fabulous high waisted skirts that go so perfectly with the womens fit shirts. Another big hit was the vintage Smith and Corona typewriter, used to encourage passers-by to type in their e-mail addresses for their subcription to the JPOL newsletters. Day two - Halloween at WGWDay two of October 2009 Whitby Goth Weekend fell on Halloween and bought about the most visitors to The Leisure Centre. Jon Dea, the manager of the Leisure Centre WGW traders, had arranged some extra special outdoor attractions - The Giddy Kipper caterers and the Custom Car Rally - and these definately added even more to the appeal of the Leisure Centre venue. The cars Day three - umbrellas, last minute shopping and pack downThe weather of Sunday morning was great for ducks but less so for goths. Ricky gave Libby and See you at WGW April 2010Whitby Goth Weekend is now a definate part of the Jed Phoenix of London calendar. We've already booked our pitch and accommodation for WGW in April 2010. The dates are 23rd, 24th and 25th April and it's going to be bigger and better than ever! Hotels and self catering cottages are selling out fast so get booking and we'll see you there! Tags: Whitby Goth Weekend Hits: 349 | Read more... |
The journey up the M1 was the smoothest it ever has been and, despite the disappointment that the Yorkshire Moors were cloaked in the dark autumnal sky by the time we reached them, we arrived in Whitby at 6.15pm. We parked up and headed down the hill into the town centre - Cas went to Gutsy Ginger's where she was staying for the weekend, and Libby and I found a curry house. 
were beautiful, ranging in all ages and types, from chevvies to custom Morris Minors! Trade for Jed Phoenix of London was slightly quieter on the Saturday than the Friday, but there was plenty of interest and we gathered more email addresses and caught up with customers that I'd not seen for a couple of years.
myself a lift up the hill to The Leisure Centre for the last day of trading at October 2009's Halloween Whitby Goth Weekend. Unsurprisingly, the torrential rain and strong winds kept many of the visitors away. Only the brave and determined shoppers ventured out, until early afternoon when the weather cleared up. 5pm signalled time to start with pack down, and by 6.30pm, Libby and I were ready to set off back to London. Cas decided to stay on in Whitby for an extra day, so we had one less passenger, and, of course, a couple of bags of empty hangers. |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - Ties, Cravats and Hats |
| 2009.11.12 19:13:14 | |
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12th November 2009 So production is well underway to stock up ready to satisfy upcoming Erotica and any customer orders before Christmas etc, so the days have been very practical work, lots of cutting, pinning, pressing and sewing. The last two days have been spent making several items or preparing them to be made up. Libbys short braces are being pressed and prepared, to match her high waisted skirts and these come in several colours and fabrics so I have had a few very colourful moments! Sade and I worked together cutting these, measuring and pressing and Libby is now sewing them. Today I have pressed trouser lining seams and spent the rest of the day cutting approx 20 cravats (womens ties for shirts) in various fabrics, some for Jed's collection and some for Libby's. I then pinned these together, sewed them and pressed them. Sade started to continue their construction by attaching the neck straps etc. I also cut several mens ties and several hats, which I have pinned ready for Elaine to sew. Its great getting to do practical making tasks as I find this one of the most enjoyable things in fashion. I am still getting used to the hours and working each day, but its a highly positive experience for my fashion skills and personal development alike. Tags: work experience Hits: 334 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - Braces, Braces, Braces |
| 2009.11.09 18:15:20 | |
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9th November - Monday The day after LFF and I am SO sore today. My muscles are aching from the lifting yesterday, especially my arms and back, but I can still sew so that's the good news Today was a full day of contuining to produce the seven pairs of braces I started last week. They are coming along rather well and I am proud to be making them from scratch and see them come to life. Tasks today included sewing straps and elastic, metal clips and fastenings and hot cutting the straps and elastic etc all to make the braces. They are still in progress but very rewarding indeed. I had a few other mini tasks today including hand sewing the top of a shortened zip to act as a zip pull stopper and large stitch machine tacking some fabric pieces. I shall continue the braces once again tomorrow after a good sleep and rest of the muscles
Tags: work experience Hits: 266 | Read more... |
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| CharlotteG
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| Work Experience - London Fetish Fair |
| 2009.11.09 18:00:21 | |
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8th November - Sunday - LFF Well what an experience today was! I got up early this Sunday morning to travel to LFF to help Jed with the stall all day. It was the perfect way to witness how selling and business and attitudes work in an event/selling atmosphere. It was a first time fetish event for me and it certainly gave me a lot to learn and loads to see. We arrived about 9am and started setting up pretty much straight away, lifting heavy stuff was quite a difficult task but we managed it. I am quite tiny and Jed had a sore back so we were so happy when Mark and Neil turned up to help with lifting (God Bless Strong Men) I spent the day sitting by the stall and watching how Jed interacted with people looking at products on the stall and she was extremely helpful in explaining to me how to go about conversations and product advice for potential buyers. After all, the more I learn, the better understanding I have so it's always beneficial. There were a couple of sales and considerable interest so this was positive for Jed. It was later in the day that Mark mentioned he would show me around and introduce me to some of the stall owners. This was quite funny as I am a newbie to everything at LFF almost and Mark gladly explained things to me which was certainly a unique learning curve. I was very curious to see what a violet wand felt like so I had a demonstration to my arm and it felt tingly and sharp at the same time, however I did not request it at a high setting, not just yet anyway! The sparks look really amazing and the photographer at the event tried to capture some pictures of it working. The fair was open to the public from 12 and stalls ended at 6pm so then we had to pack up again. The process was quite swift with Jed, myself and Neils' wife helping to pack, then getting it all back up into the van was all done by 7pm and I headed for the train station. I was so tired but very glad to experience today and gain more knowledge of a direct selling evironment in business. Next time I will be able to put my new skills to the test will be at Erotica in a few weeks, so fingers crossed for a positive result!
Tags: Hits: 239 | Read more... |
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